I’ve been walking the Ireland Way trail for the past few weeks and just recently passed the halfway point. It’s been a very challenging and interesting walk but mostly for reasons which I did not expect. That is to say, I expected this walk to be rather “easy” compared to my previous trips and largely focused on the places, landmarks and culture that I might encounter along the way. Instead, I’ve really struggled with anxiety and loneliness and the motivation to continue!
In this post, I would like to talk about some of these issues and my experience on the Ireland Way.
– My feelings at the beginning of the trip.
– some early thoughts/opinion on the Ireland Way.
– Highlights of the trip so far.
– My experience with hiking and camping gear.
– My struggle with anxiety and decision to continue walking the Ireland Way.
– Making videos, going viral and getting recognised on the walk.
How it Felt to Begin an Adventure After a Year of Uncertainty
The start of every adventure is filled with a mixture of nerves and excitement. But it’s a long time since I took a long distance trip and this left me feeling especially anxious up near the Giants Causeway. We’ve also endured an incredibly weird year of uncertainty and I did very little exercise or preparation for this walk. As a result, this did nothing to alleviate my growing sense of fear and anxiety.
However, even with 25lbs of weight on my back, I noticed a certain weight lift off my shoulders in those first few steps. It sounds rather silly but everything feels different on the move. I felt a great sense of purpose return as the sound of the ocean replaced the noise of a fast-moving world.
It stayed like this for the first week. I was still quite nervous about looking for suitable wild camping spots each night but the absence of stress and noise was notable with every passing day.
Some Thoughts from the Halfway Point of The Ireland Way
The Ireland Way connects two long distance trails that run from the top to bottom of Ireland – the Beara Breifne Way and the Ulster Way. Most hikers walk this trail from south to north but I decided to walk in the opposite direction so that I could finish in West Cork. While it’s possible to stay in guesthouses the entire way, I couldn’t afford that option and wanted to wild camp along the way.
Although the very first section (the Causeway Coast trail) was almost entirely off-road, a very large portion of the Ulster Way consists of road. I’m used to quiet country roads since my walk around Ireland two years ago. It felt like many parts of the Ulster Way were more suited to cycling as opposed to walking. Signage on the Ulster Way is also really bad and I was delighted to have the Hiiker app for company throughout this section. That said, there were several highlights including Downhill Forest, the Sperrin Mountains and Little/Big Dog in County Fermanagh. The people were lovely at every turn and the towns were nice but many shops seemed to be closed down (COVID).
After some long road sections, the Cavan Way was an absolute delight when I crossed over from Co. Fermanagh. This was followed by an equally impressive trail, the Leitrim Way, and both of these trails were mostly off-road and extremely well signposted. I also really enjoyed the Suck Valley Way but took an alternate route across Roscommon which saw me miss the hugely popular Miners Way.
And you know what I found most challenging?
Being alone with my own thoughts for so long. But more on that in a moment.
Highlights of Walking the Ireland Way (So Far)
The stretch of coastline near the Giants Causeway is truly spectacular. I genuinely believe County Antrim is one of the most underrated counties in terms of both scenery and places of interest. Dunluce Castle is an awe-inspiring sight and sandy beaches come thick and fast all along the north coast. Downhill Forest near Castlerock feels magical and the Sperrin Mountains have a kind of rugged and lonely beauty that reminds me of parts of Mayo. The lakes near Little/Big Dog in Fermanagh were a lovely surprise and the Cavan Way is one of the most interesting trails in Ireland. In fact, for whatever reasons, the trails have been much more impressive and well-maintained over the past week which leaves me hopeful for a big finish as I near the mountains in County Cork.
About My Experience with Hiking and Camping Gear
Firstly, the MSR Hubba Hubba NX 2 is the best backpacking tent that I have ever come across. It’s extremely light and surprisingly durable/strong for such light fabric. It stood up reasonably well to a night of heavy wind and rain and there’s so much space inside – more than enough for two people.
I’ve been using the same socks (1000 Mile Socks) as my previous long distance walk but this was my first time to use a pair of Merrell Moab 2 GTX hiking shoes. I now understand why the Moab 2 GTX are one of the most popular hiking shoes in Ireland. They are very sturdy and watertight and not heavy like a boot which is one of the reasons I most often wear trail runners on my long walks. I got a very bad pinch blister in week two but this is due to my slightly deformed toes and not the shoe.
I’ve also been using an APG stove which is similar to the Jetboil and very impressed by its’ performance. Similarly, it’s my first time to use a Vango Cobra 400 sleeping bag which is extremely comfortable and packs down really small. I recommend carrying a sleep liner and a trespass Fleece for extra warmth.
My favourite accessory? My colourful Buff hat which you can buy here.
Making Videos and Getting Recognised During My Walk
Making videos on the trail is one of the most challenging thing about the walk. I’ve been carrying power banks to keep everything charged but it takes a push to edit and upload videos after a long day of walking. Interestingly, these videos mean that I am sometimes recognised by locals. It’s always lovely to meet followers but if I’m honest, it’s also an incredibly bizarre experience and one that often leaves me feeling rather bewildered. I had a waiter buy me coffee in Dungiven and another lovely man give me £20 for lunch roadside in Derry. The thing that really strikes me about such interactions is that people will “give” something without expectation of receiving anything in return – even my time.
Going Viral on Facebook and a Wave of New Followers
I recently posted a video on Facebook that went viral. It was just a short morning update for my trip followers to tell them about a farmer that caught me camping on his land. There was no home/building/farm nearby and nobody around when I pitched the tent so I used this opportunity to ask permission. He was a lovely man and perfectly fine with the situation.
Anyway, this particular video received a lot of attention (1.5 million views) after the Facebook algorithm decided to pick it up. To be honest, there was a number of very abusive messages. However, I’m delighted with how this video brought thousands of really positive, like-minded people into my online community.
My Struggle with Anxiety and Decision to Continue Walking the Ireland Way
I had what you might call a successful year for both personal and professional reasons. After all, this time last year, I was working at a supermarket and sweeping floors in a warehouse and now here I am back working as an adventurer. I also spent a lot of this time ignoring the news, reading about spirituality and planning for the future. With this in mind, I was expecting an enjoyable and worry-free walk along the Ireland Way and not the anxiety issues that encompassed week three of the walk.
I was feeling somewhat lonely and anxious at times but this anxiety became more and more apparent in the third week. It got to the point where I felt overwhelmed and decided to take a few days away from the walk. This worked and I felt great (back to normal) for three full days but then as soon as I returned to the road, I felt that same anxiety rising back to the surface. I could have stopped the trip at this point and it did cross my mind, but only for a day or so.
It’s been a crazy year for everyone. In my own instance, I either ignored or miscalculated how much this strange period has impacted on my mental health. In fact, I don’t believe I would have encountered these problems or come to this way of thinking without walking the Ireland Way. This journey has made me feel deeply uncomfortable at times and brought forward a range of suppressed feelings and thoughts from which I am easily distracted in my every day life.
As for why I decided to continue my walk, I believe that some of the hardest questions are best answered in the dark. Turning my back on this uncertain journey would be to ignore the very path that might reveal why I’m feeling this way and how I can make everything right again. I’m also privileged to be healthy and able-enough to take this walk – another reason to do anything in life.